Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Report from Grenada to Martinique, Fall 2015

On October 8 we returned to S/V Charlotte D for the 2015-2016 sailing season. The boat was stored ashore for the hurricane season at Spice Island Marine in Grenada.

Preparing the Charlotte D for the cruising season involves much work before launch. Almost all this work was owner-performed.

Items stored inside were returned to service. This category includes Yamaha outboard engine, Honda generator, blades of KISS wind generator, and furlers for the two head sails. Each received their yearly lubrication and maintenance, and signaled their appreciation by purring in operation.

Under the waterline. We continued our program of reducing the number of holes in the hull. We filled holes left by removal of the grounding plate of the HF radio. This plate was replaced with a KISS-SSB counterpoise installed inside (no holes in hull).  It works just as well, if not better.  We also removed one more through-hull sea cock and filled the resulting hole with fiberglass. Then there was the yearly anti-fouling paint and new sacrificial zincs under the waterline.
New items. Almost every season one or more electronic devices are replaced. We installed a new Standard Horizon GX 2000 radio at the Navigation Station. This VHF radio includes receivers for AIS (automatic information system) and GPS (global positioning system). We brought aboard a new EPIRB (emergency position indicating radio beacon). 
It was time for the scheduled replacement of batteries in the “house bank” which supplies power to domestic systems (lighting, water pumps, water-maker, refrigerator), navigation equipment (autopilot and other instruments) and radios.

Other routine maintenance. Catherine buffed topsides, lexan windows, and polished exterior stainless steel fittings. 
Our 1974 diesel propulsion engine had been serviced in the spring before storage, and after installation of new impeller for the raw water pump, “Dorothy Perkins” indicated her willingness to go to work for another season by starting flawlessly. Of course, service to toilets and sanitation systems is always on the list. This year, it was a cracked discharge elbow and a new 5 m section of sanitation hose.

Some work was hired out. We commissioned with Turbulence Rigging for an awning, covers for cockpit cushions, and some masthead rigging repairs, including several new items of running rigging, with new blocks and shackles for each replaced line.

The work ashore required 20 days for completion. Several days of heavy rain were welcomed as days of rest in our comfortable efficiency apartment at Cool Runnings just around the corner from the boatyard. Finally, the Charlotte D was launched on October 28!

Recommissioning in Water. Because of the heat and humidity in the boatyard, we delay the installation of sails and their control lines until after the boat has been launched.

Time To Loaf. Once all recommissioning was completed and we were happily at anchor in Prickly Bay of Grenada, we spent two weeks loafing in fine weather. Among loafing activities were afternoons at the University Club enjoying their swimming pool and bar. Then there were Happy Hours, Two-for-One Pizza nights, music events, and some nice lunches at the Prickly Bay Marina, just a short dinghy ride away. At this gathering place, we enjoy the company of fellow cruisers.
Time to Go Sailing. Finally, well rested, we departed Prickly Bay on November 12 for the day sail to Carriacou, another island in the country of Grenada. Our destination was the Sandy Island Marine Management Area, where new moorings were installed in April.
Of course, there is a charge for the moorings, but it is only about US $20 per night, and no charge on weekends. This is a scenic, quiet location with gin-clear water. Swimming over the bright sand bottom just under the keel is a delight.  With a steady breeze supplying the wind generator, it is an ideal location for operating reverse osmosis water-maker to fill fresh water tanks.

We enjoyed Curtis' “Off-the-Hook” Beach Bar and Restaurant. 

On November 16 we moved “around-the-corner” to Tyrell Bay with the expectation of checking out of Carriacou with Customs and Immigration for departure from Grenada. But it was not to be, for this was the beginning of a tough period aboard the Charlotte D.

Time to Be Sick. Peter contracted a tropical fever, probably mosquito-borne, perhaps Dengue or Chikungunya. Symptoms vary considerably from case-to-case, but there seems always to be high fever. Associated symptoms included vomiting and diarrhea, which lead to serious dehydration, urine output decreasing to a few drops per hour.

Catherine's expert and tender ministrations included intravenous (IV) fluids, attempting to reverse the dehydration caused by inability to eat or drink while continuing to lose body fluids from vomiting and diarrhea. 
The IV fluids were beneficial, but what really reduced the fever was covering the patient with bottles of ice water, ice-cold compresses, and bags of chilled wine! The fever came down and Peter could once again drink water without nausea. The dehydration gradually resolved.

The acute phase, with Peter confined to his bunk, lasted about 10 days until he experienced his first hunger pangs and became able to take solid food. The worst was over. However, there was a profound lethargy which, together with fatigue, persisted for several more weeks. Other persistent symptoms included joint pain, which further limited physical activity. Consequently, strength was slow to return. Daily swims around the boat were beneficial because this is easy on joints and provides some modest physical conditioning.

During the acute phase, anchored in Tyrell Bay of Carriacou, we were fortunate to make local contacts. Most generous in their volunteered assistance where Richard and Diane, operators of LumbaDive. They arranged through the local pharmacy for delivery by ferry from Grenada of additional intravenous fluids to supplement Catherine's diminishing supply. They met the ferry and delivered supplies to our boat. We thank them.
Fellow cruisers stepped up in our time of need. In particular, because Catherine cannot crank our dinghy engine due to an old shoulder injury, it was important that James and Sharon of S/V Somewhere provided her with on-demand dinghy service for shore access. We thank them.

On December 1, Peter had enough strength for us to proceed northward. We anchored overnight at Bequia and continued the next day to Marigot Bay of St. Lucia. These two days of sailing were all that Peter could manage without further rest.

Convalescence. Marigot Bay was an ideal location for continuing Peter's convalescence. In the scenic and calm outer bay, the swimming conditions are ideal and one has the choice of anchoring or mooring. Shore access is easy. In fact, we worked on reconditioning by using our row dinghy instead of the motorized one.

Ashore at Marigot Bay there are multiple options for rest, relaxation and nourishment, perfect for convalescence. We selected venues with comfortable seating, efficient table service and good internet. In particular, we enjoyed Chateau MyGo (server Norma).
And Lithia was our favourite server at Dr. Dolittle's. 

The pool area at Capella's has the most comfortable lounging couches, with the most friendly and expeditious pool-side wait staff (Chevie and Jose). There is a modest grocery store. The Deli/Bakery supplies a choice of pastries and a reasonable English imitation of a French Baguette. We happily passed nine days at Marigot Bay as Peter became stronger day-by-day. His rehab program was a mix of rowing, swimming and lounging.

Back to Sailing. On December 12, to “stage” for the channel crossing from St. Lucia to Martinique, we moved the Charlotte D to Rodney Bay, the northern-most anchorage in St. Lucia. It is a secure anchorage, but the all-night “music” from the beach-front resorts prevented a sound sleep. Consequently, we do not recommend Rodney Bay and will not return soon.

We were delighted the next morning to have perfect weather to sail across the sometimes rough channel between St. Lucia and Martinique. 
The opportunity to raise sail on a sunny day with ideal wind and benign sea was much appreciated and gave us strength! Click on the video for a sample of ideal trade wind sailing!
There are numerous attractive anchorages in Martinique. Our next posting will describe our enjoyment of these anchorages and the French West Indies Culture ashore.

Stay tuned!

"One who is not every day conquering some fear, has not learned the secret of life."  Ralph Waldo Emerson.

Peter and Catherine, aboard S/V Charlotte D in Martinique, FWI.