On October 8 we returned
to S/V Charlotte D for the 2015-2016 sailing season. The boat
was stored ashore for the hurricane season at Spice Island Marine in
Grenada.
Preparing the Charlotte D
for the cruising season involves much work before launch. Almost all
this work was owner-performed.
Items stored inside
were returned to service. This category includes Yamaha
outboard engine, Honda generator, blades of KISS wind generator, and
furlers for the two head sails. Each received their yearly
lubrication and maintenance, and signaled their appreciation by
purring in operation.
Under the waterline.
We continued our program of reducing the number of
holes in the hull. We filled holes left by removal of the grounding
plate of the HF radio. This plate was replaced with a KISS-SSB
counterpoise installed inside (no holes in hull). It works just as well, if not better. We also removed
one more through-hull sea cock and filled the resulting hole with
fiberglass. Then there was the yearly anti-fouling paint and new
sacrificial zincs under the waterline.
New items.
Almost every season one or more electronic devices are replaced. We
installed a new Standard Horizon GX 2000 radio at the Navigation
Station. This VHF radio includes receivers for AIS (automatic
information system) and GPS (global positioning system). We brought
aboard a new EPIRB (emergency position indicating radio beacon).
It
was time for the scheduled replacement of batteries in the “house
bank” which supplies power to domestic systems (lighting, water
pumps, water-maker, refrigerator), navigation equipment (autopilot
and other instruments) and radios.
Other routine
maintenance. Catherine buffed topsides, lexan windows, and
polished exterior stainless steel fittings.
Our 1974 diesel
propulsion engine had been serviced in the spring before storage, and
after installation of new impeller for the raw water pump, “Dorothy
Perkins” indicated her willingness to go to work for another season
by starting flawlessly. Of course, service to toilets and sanitation
systems is always on the list. This year, it was a cracked discharge
elbow and a new 5 m section of sanitation hose.
Some work was hired
out. We commissioned with Turbulence Rigging for an awning,
covers for cockpit cushions, and some masthead rigging repairs,
including several new items of running rigging, with new blocks and
shackles for each replaced line.
The work ashore required
20 days for completion. Several days of heavy rain were welcomed as
days of rest in our comfortable efficiency apartment at Cool Runnings
just around the corner from the boatyard. Finally, the Charlotte D
was launched on October 28!
Recommissioning in
Water. Because of the heat and humidity in the boatyard, we
delay the installation of sails and their control lines until after
the boat has been launched.
Time To Loaf.
Once all recommissioning was completed and we were happily at anchor
in Prickly Bay of Grenada, we spent two weeks loafing in fine
weather. Among loafing activities were afternoons at the University
Club enjoying their swimming pool and bar. Then there were Happy
Hours, Two-for-One Pizza nights, music events, and some nice lunches
at the Prickly Bay Marina, just a short dinghy ride away. At this
gathering place, we enjoy the company of fellow cruisers.
Time to Go Sailing.
Finally, well rested, we departed Prickly Bay on November 12 for the
day sail to Carriacou, another island in the country of Grenada. Our
destination was the Sandy Island Marine Management Area, where new
moorings were installed in April.
Of course, there is a charge for
the moorings, but it is only about US $20 per night, and no charge on
weekends. This is a scenic, quiet location with gin-clear water.
Swimming over the bright sand bottom just under the keel is a
delight. With a steady breeze supplying the wind generator, it is an ideal location for operating reverse osmosis water-maker to fill fresh water tanks.
We enjoyed Curtis' “Off-the-Hook” Beach Bar and
Restaurant.
On November 16 we moved
“around-the-corner” to Tyrell Bay with the expectation of
checking out of Carriacou with Customs and Immigration for departure
from Grenada. But it was not to be, for this was the beginning of a
tough period aboard the Charlotte D.
Time to Be Sick.
Peter contracted a tropical fever, probably mosquito-borne, perhaps
Dengue or Chikungunya. Symptoms vary considerably from case-to-case,
but there seems always to be high fever. Associated symptoms
included vomiting and diarrhea, which lead to serious dehydration,
urine output decreasing to a few drops per hour.
Catherine's expert and
tender ministrations included intravenous (IV) fluids, attempting to
reverse the dehydration caused by inability to eat or drink while
continuing to lose body fluids from vomiting and diarrhea.
The IV
fluids were beneficial, but what really reduced the fever was
covering the patient with bottles of ice water, ice-cold compresses,
and bags of chilled wine! The fever came down and Peter could once
again drink water without nausea. The dehydration gradually
resolved.
The acute phase, with
Peter confined to his bunk, lasted about 10 days until he experienced
his first hunger pangs and became able to take solid food. The worst
was over. However, there was a profound lethargy which, together
with fatigue, persisted for several more weeks. Other persistent
symptoms included joint pain, which further limited physical
activity. Consequently, strength was slow to return. Daily swims
around the boat were beneficial because this is easy on joints and
provides some modest physical conditioning.
During the acute phase,
anchored in Tyrell Bay of Carriacou, we were fortunate to make local
contacts. Most generous in their volunteered assistance where Richard
and Diane, operators of LumbaDive. They arranged through the local
pharmacy for delivery by ferry from Grenada of additional intravenous
fluids to supplement Catherine's diminishing supply. They met the
ferry and delivered supplies to our boat. We thank them.
Fellow cruisers stepped up
in our time of need. In particular, because Catherine cannot crank
our dinghy engine due to an old shoulder injury, it was important
that James and Sharon of S/V Somewhere provided her with on-demand
dinghy service for shore access. We thank them.
On December 1, Peter had
enough strength for us to proceed northward. We anchored overnight
at Bequia and continued the next day to Marigot Bay of St. Lucia.
These two days of sailing were all that Peter could manage without
further rest.
Convalescence.
Marigot Bay was an ideal location for continuing Peter's
convalescence. In the scenic and calm outer bay, the swimming
conditions are ideal and one has the choice of anchoring or mooring.
Shore access is easy. In fact, we worked on reconditioning by using
our row dinghy instead of the motorized one.
Ashore at Marigot Bay
there are multiple options for rest, relaxation and nourishment,
perfect for convalescence. We selected venues with comfortable
seating, efficient table service and good internet. In particular,
we enjoyed Chateau MyGo (server Norma).
And Lithia was our favourite server at Dr. Dolittle's.
The pool area at Capella's has the most comfortable
lounging couches, with the most friendly and expeditious pool-side
wait staff (Chevie and Jose). There is a modest grocery store. The
Deli/Bakery supplies a choice of pastries and a reasonable English
imitation of a French Baguette. We happily passed nine days at
Marigot Bay as Peter became stronger day-by-day. His rehab program
was a mix of rowing, swimming and lounging.
Back to Sailing.
On December 12, to “stage” for the
channel crossing from St. Lucia to Martinique, we moved the Charlotte
D to Rodney Bay, the northern-most anchorage in St. Lucia. It is a
secure anchorage, but the all-night “music” from the beach-front
resorts prevented a sound sleep. Consequently, we do not recommend
Rodney Bay and will not return soon.
We were delighted the next
morning to have perfect weather to sail across the sometimes rough
channel between St. Lucia and Martinique.
The opportunity to raise
sail on a sunny day with ideal wind and benign sea was much
appreciated and gave us strength! Click on the video for a sample of
ideal trade wind sailing!
There are numerous
attractive anchorages in Martinique. Our next posting will describe
our enjoyment of these anchorages and the French West Indies Culture
ashore.
Stay tuned!
"One who is not every day conquering some fear, has not learned the secret of life." Ralph Waldo Emerson.
Peter and Catherine,
aboard S/V Charlotte D in Martinique, FWI.
