report from The Grenadines

This is our second update for the cruising season of winter 2009-2010.

We sailed north from Grenada December 20-21 to The Grenadines, the southern-most islands of the country of St Vincent and The Grenadines.

There are 32 islands in The Grenadines, spread over 50 miles, making navigation line-of-sight. The islands are scattered along a roughly north-south axis, ideal for sailing back and forth with the easterly trade winds. The islands are mountainous (Mt Toboi peaks at 335 m/1100ft), with navigable depths quite close to the shores. During our six weeks here we spent time anchored off beaches of three different islands.

BEQUIA
This is one of our favourite islands, about 7 square miles with some 5000 residents, lying about 9 nm south of the big island of St Vincent. It is a port of entry with good supplies (including gas, diesel and propane; fresh fish, fruit and vegies; groceries; chandleries; 2 banks and internet access; sail and canvas shops).

We enjoyed the visit of our friends from Indiana and Minnesota, who were overjoyed to be in the warm and sunny!

We shared some delicious meals with them, both on and off the boat.

The vegetable market is well stocked with local produce, and dealing with the Rasta vendors is an adventure in itself. If not careful one comes away with more produce than intended.

The Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary operated by Orton King is a must-see. We're not sure what wildlife biologists think about it, but he protects turtle nests, collects the hatchlings, and grows them in tanks for several years before releasing them back into the ocean

There are many hikes possible on Bequia, or you can take a taxi.

Last year an artist incorporated the "Charlotte D" into one of her watercolours. We did not meet at that time. She knew us only as "the teal boat people". Well! She recognized our boat when we returned this year and managed to find us on the beach, to give us a print of her beautiful work. Thank you again.

Bequia is very popular and busy, so, in spite of it's attractions, we often sail to quieter anchorages.

MAYREAU
This is a small island (1.5 square miles) with a small population (about 300), several small beaches and one large beach, almost deserted. There are several splendid anchorages, including Saltwhistle Bay, Windward Bay and Saline Bay. There are no facilities. "Nothing to do" except enjoy the warm sea and sand! And that is exactly what we did

Vendors come to the anchored boats with various goods. The selection is interesting, although we're sure they charge too much if they think they can get away with it. The fish weights are always stated higher that our fish scale indicates, and after the price is negotiated they discover that they have no change! We recognize that they are bringing us products not otherwise readily available at the remote anchorages, so we don't complain much.

A delicious dinner of BBQ fish warranted a postprandial cigar and glass of red wine (allowance of one a month on the former and one a day on the latter). Yes Joe, it's still the box of Havanas that you gave me 4 years ago!

Of course, boat maintanence never ends. Catherine buffed the sun-glazed lexan windows, and repaired our sun awning.

Meanwhile, Peter had to bouse down the topping lifts, cat the anchor, clap on the dinghy falls, flake down the main sheets, and frap the halyards before he was allowed to bleed the monkey.

UNION ISLAND
Clifton is a port of entry with plenty of facilities, even a pig walking down the main street between the grocery and the bank!

However, for us, the real treasure of Union Island is Chatham Bay.

Seckie and Vanessa operate a beach restaurant/bar in Chatham Bay, to which we keep returning.

Happy Hour here is delightful and followed by beach BBQ (here it's chicken, fish and lobster).

Vanessa taught us how to roast breadfruit on wood fire. The small slits in the ends are part of assessing when they are done.

We were pleased to present a Cape Breton flag to Seckie and Vanessa, which was promptly hung from the rafters with great ceremony and appropriate libations.

Catherine found someone at Chatham Bay to "re-do her do". First, Vanessa helped her remove the previous braids.

Later new braids were fashioned in the outdoor salon behind the fishermans hut. The final product was unique and interesting (especially the coloured beads to the baby).

Perhaps you noticed the salted fish drying on the wall behind the hair braiding operation? A Chatham Bay fisherman taught us how to prepare corned fish. The prefered fish are netted small "cravallie" (jacks). We caught some on hook and line and prepared them following the lessions of our tutor. Delicious! Sharp teeth and strong jaw required.


A number of fishermen live in huts along the beach in Chatham Bay, and their moored boats add to the visual interest. That's the "Charlotte D" with triangular riding sail just above the pelicans head.

Mountainous Union Island offers vigorous hikes from Chatham Bay to "burn out the carbon", with the rewards of spendid vistas and interesting vegetation.

Fortunately, large cruise ships do not come to Chatham Bay ("nothing to do", remember), but we are happy to share the anchorage with smaller, sailing cruise ships. So beautiful

There are wonderful sunsets at Chatham Bay. We did observe the "Green Flash"

We sailed away from The Grenadines on Feb 4 toward St Lucia, Martinique, and Les Saintes (Guadaloupe).

Peter and Catherine, aboard S/V "Charlotte D", now at Les Saintes

"To make the gods laugh, tell them your plans."