Report from Grenada to Martinique, Fall 2015

On October 8 we returned to S/V Charlotte D for the 2015-2016 sailing season. The boat was stored ashore for the hurricane season at Spice Island Marine in Grenada.

Preparing the Charlotte D for the cruising season involves much work before launch. Almost all this work was owner-performed.

Items stored inside were returned to service. This category includes Yamaha outboard engine, Honda generator, blades of KISS wind generator, and furlers for the two head sails. Each received their yearly lubrication and maintenance, and signaled their appreciation by purring in operation.

Under the waterline. We continued our program of reducing the number of holes in the hull. We filled holes left by removal of the grounding plate of the HF radio. This plate was replaced with a KISS-SSB counterpoise installed inside (no holes in hull).  It works just as well, if not better.  We also removed one more through-hull sea cock and filled the resulting hole with fiberglass. Then there was the yearly anti-fouling paint and new sacrificial zincs under the waterline.

New items. Almost every season one or more electronic devices are replaced. We installed a new Standard Horizon GX 2000 radio at the Navigation Station. This VHF radio includes receivers for AIS (automatic information system) and GPS (global positioning system). We brought aboard a new EPIRB (emergency position indicating radio beacon). 

It was time for the scheduled replacement of batteries in the “house bank” which supplies power to domestic systems (lighting, water pumps, water-maker, refrigerator), navigation equipment (autopilot and other instruments) and radios.

Other routine maintenance. Catherine buffed topsides, lexan windows, and polished exterior stainless steel fittings. 

Our 1974 diesel propulsion engine had been serviced in the spring before storage, and after installation of new impeller for the raw water pump, “Dorothy Perkins” indicated her willingness to go to work for another season by starting flawlessly. Of course, service to toilets and sanitation systems is always on the list. This year, it was a cracked discharge elbow and a new 5 m section of sanitation hose.

Some work was hired out. We commissioned with Turbulence Rigging for an awning, covers for cockpit cushions, and some masthead rigging repairs, including several new items of running rigging, with new blocks and shackles for each replaced line.

The work ashore required 20 days for completion. Several days of heavy rain were welcomed as days of rest in our comfortable efficiency apartment at Cool Runnings just around the corner from the boatyard. Finally, the Charlotte D was launched on October 28!

Recommissioning in Water. Because of the heat and humidity in the boatyard, we delay the installation of sails and their control lines until after the boat has been launched.

Time To Loaf. Once all recommissioning was completed and we were happily at anchor in Prickly Bay of Grenada, we spent two weeks loafing in fine weather. Among loafing activities were afternoons at the University Club enjoying their swimming pool and bar. Then there were Happy Hours, Two-for-One Pizza nights, music events, and some nice lunches at the Prickly Bay Marina, just a short dinghy ride away. At this gathering place, we enjoy the company of fellow cruisers.

Time to Go Sailing. Finally, well rested, we departed Prickly Bay on November 12 for the day sail to Carriacou, another island in the country of Grenada. Our destination was the Sandy Island Marine Management Area, where new moorings were installed in April.

Of course, there is a charge for the moorings, but it is only about US $20 per night, and no charge on weekends. This is a scenic, quiet location with gin-clear water. Swimming over the bright sand bottom just under the keel is a delight.  With a steady breeze supplying the wind generator, it is an ideal location for operating reverse osmosis water-maker to fill fresh water tanks.

We enjoyed Curtis' “Off-the-Hook” Beach Bar and Restaurant. 

On November 16 we moved “around-the-corner” to Tyrell Bay with the expectation of checking out of Carriacou with Customs and Immigration for departure from Grenada. But it was not to be, for this was the beginning of a tough period aboard the Charlotte D.

Time to Be Sick. Peter contracted a tropical fever, probably mosquito-borne, perhaps Dengue or Chikungunya. Symptoms vary considerably from case-to-case, but there seems always to be high fever. Associated symptoms included vomiting and diarrhea, which lead to serious dehydration, urine output decreasing to a few drops per hour.

Catherine's expert and tender ministrations included intravenous (IV) fluids, attempting to reverse the dehydration caused by inability to eat or drink while continuing to lose body fluids from vomiting and diarrhea. 

The IV fluids were beneficial, but what really reduced the fever was covering the patient with bottles of ice water, ice-cold compresses, and bags of chilled wine! The fever came down and Peter could once again drink water without nausea. The dehydration gradually resolved.

The acute phase, with Peter confined to his bunk, lasted about 10 days until he experienced his first hunger pangs and became able to take solid food. The worst was over. However, there was a profound lethargy which, together with fatigue, persisted for several more weeks. Other persistent symptoms included joint pain, which further limited physical activity. Consequently, strength was slow to return. Daily swims around the boat were beneficial because this is easy on joints and provides some modest physical conditioning.

During the acute phase, anchored in Tyrell Bay of Carriacou, we were fortunate to make local contacts. Most generous in their volunteered assistance where Richard and Diane, operators of LumbaDive. They arranged through the local pharmacy for delivery by ferry from Grenada of additional intravenous fluids to supplement Catherine's diminishing supply. They met the ferry and delivered supplies to our boat. We thank them.

Fellow cruisers stepped up in our time of need. In particular, because Catherine cannot crank our dinghy engine due to an old shoulder injury, it was important that James and Sharon of S/V Somewhere provided her with on-demand dinghy service for shore access. We thank them.

On December 1, Peter had enough strength for us to proceed northward. We anchored overnight at Bequia and continued the next day to Marigot Bay of St. Lucia. These two days of sailing were all that Peter could manage without further rest.

Convalescence. Marigot Bay was an ideal location for continuing Peter's convalescence. In the scenic and calm outer bay, the swimming conditions are ideal and one has the choice of anchoring or mooring. Shore access is easy. In fact, we worked on reconditioning by using our row dinghy instead of the motorized one.

Ashore at Marigot Bay there are multiple options for rest, relaxation and nourishment, perfect for convalescence. We selected venues with comfortable seating, efficient table service and good internet. In particular, we enjoyed Chateau MyGo (server Norma).

And Lithia was our favourite server at Dr. Dolittle's. 

The pool area at Capella's has the most comfortable lounging couches, with the most friendly and expeditious pool-side wait staff (Chevie and Jose). There is a modest grocery store. The Deli/Bakery supplies a choice of pastries and a reasonable English imitation of a French Baguette. We happily passed nine days at Marigot Bay as Peter became stronger day-by-day. His rehab program was a mix of rowing, swimming and lounging.

Back to Sailing. On December 12, to “stage” for the channel crossing from St. Lucia to Martinique, we moved the Charlotte D to Rodney Bay, the northern-most anchorage in St. Lucia. It is a secure anchorage, but the all-night “music” from the beach-front resorts prevented a sound sleep. Consequently, we do not recommend Rodney Bay and will not return soon.

We were delighted the next morning to have perfect weather to sail across the sometimes rough channel between St. Lucia and Martinique. 

The opportunity to raise sail on a sunny day with ideal wind and benign sea was much appreciated and gave us strength! Click on the video for a sample of ideal trade wind sailing!

There are numerous attractive anchorages in Martinique. Our next posting will describe our enjoyment of these anchorages and the French West Indies Culture ashore.

Stay tuned!

"One who is not every day conquering some fear, has not learned the secret of life."  Ralph Waldo Emerson.

Peter and Catherine, aboard S/V Charlotte D in Martinique, FWI.

Return to Grenada from the British Virgin Islands.

Via Saint-Barthelemy, Marie Galante, and The Grenadines

On Feb 25-26, we departed the British Virgin Islands to re-cross the Anegada Passage, bound SE, and discovered that departure from Cane Garden Bay and the Thatch Island Cut is not ideal because of the current running out of the Francis Drake Channel. For too many hours we bucked a 3 knot head current. Too late we learned that the more favoured departure is from the North Sound of Virgin Gorda, or even Anegada Island. Having learned so much from our past mistakes, we plan to make many more in the future.

After the delay with adverse current, the first 24 hours at sea went well, with good progress toward the SE. However, at 1100 hr of day two, 25 nm from Saba, we encountered an unexpected “trough”, or band of squalls, with wind clocking to SE 20 knots. This effectively stopped our progress toward the SE, so we diverted toward the NE and made for Ile de Saint-Barthelemy (St Barths). Concerned about a night-time arrival in a harbour that we had not visited since 2005, we directed our approach toward the mega-yachts that are lit “like Christmas trees”, and were happily anchored in the midst of million $ boats by 2100 hr. The anchor holding was good in 15 m of water. Time for a “tot”, having “spliced-the-main-brace”!

Saint-Barthelemy

We laid-over at anchor at St Barths Feb 27- Mar 1, having a pleasant time at this unexpected stop. Gustavia is a scenic harbour.

There is every diversion for moneyed visitors, including the boat where one can look underwater without getting wet. We reminisced about the Beatles and the Yellow Submarine.

This is, of course, a centre for seriously BIG boats. We enjoyed their company, including the gymnastic window washers on the “floating condominiums”.

There is a lot of history here. Wars for possession played a major role, and left many artifacts, from forts to anchors.

Speaking French here is not mandatory, but French politeness and congeniality are everywhere apparent.  The Swedish influence is still present on this now French Island.

The restaurants are fabulous! For the true gastronome, they alone would be reason to visit. So, pray understand that we have to show some of the meals we enjoyed!

At Do Brazil.

At Eden Rock.

And some of the scenic places where we dined so magnificently.

St Barths has lovely beaches.

The beaches are protected by sensible, and enforced, ordinances to maintain their pristine quality.

 Even road signs are creative, and, hopefully, effective.

Marie-Galante

From St Barths we sailed further south on Mar 2-3, past the windward side of Montserrat, the lee sides of St Kitts/Nevis, and the big island of Guadeloupe. On reaching the south end of Guadeloupe, we turned E and motored against light E wind to the island of Marie-Galante, part of the country of Guadeloupe, one of our favourite cruising grounds.

On this segment of the passage, we had several large flying fish “volunteer” to be breakfast by landing on our deck overnight. Found at first light and consumed shortly thereafter.

We laid over at anchor at St Louis, Marie-Galante, Mar 4-12 for some wonderful experiences. It was Carnival Time! Click on the video clip below to see lots of folks having fun. We admire the variety of improvised musical instruments.

From these next two video clips you might appreciate the efforts to produce the diversity of Carnival costumes. They also document the healthy lack of concern about “body image”. Let it all hang out! Shake your booty!

There is a strong music culture here. We were fortunate to chance upon jazz on the beach at sunset. Click on the video for a sample.

We were happy to visit again with M/Mme Pierrot, who operate a beachfront restaurant/bar, and we again enjoyed their company, especially with their granddaughter visiting. We have a common vocabulary of only a few hundred words, but manage to get along just fine. We learn a few more French words every time we visit with them, and they a few more English words. They believe we know more French than we actually do.

Of course, we also enjoyed the meals they produced at Chez Pierrot. Go there!

There is much beauty on Marie-Galante, both natural and human-crafted.

Sugar Cane is a major part of the economy of Marie-Galante. The harvested cane is transported from fields throughout the island to several rum distilleries, where it is crushed to extract the sugary juice. The juice is concentrated in boilers fueled by the crushed cane, fermented and distilled into rum.

The “lait de tigresse” is bottled in a semi-automated assembly line. Click on the videos below to understand the process of bottling.

After our tour of the distillery, we went to the “tasting room”, and, after much deliberation, purchased five bottles Pere Labat rum for 5 Euro each with sixth bottle free. So, we increased our contribution to the local economy.

Sugar cane cultivation and rum production have a long history on Marie-Galante, dating back at least to 1669. The plantation owners became wealthy, and built large plantation homes, on the backs of slaves working in the cane fields.

The sugar/rum industry collapsed with the abolition of slavery about 1840, and did not revive until machinery was developed to allow a few paid labourers to produce what hundreds of slaves had before.

There is considerable fishing activity in the waters around Marie-Galante. From what we saw, it appears to be little more than a subsistence fishery. There is a retail fresh fish market, which we did patronize for nice fish, but it is lightly stocked.

Livestock production is also carried out. There is a local retail market for fresh meat. However, frozen chicken “from away” is more in evidence than fresh local meats.

Tourism is another contributor to the GNP. Ferries arrive daily from the big island of Guadeloupe.   And where there are tourists there are restaurants!

The coconut ice cream is made on the spot and delicious!  Which would explain the increase in our girth!

There are numerous walking trails on Marie-Galante, ranging from short-easy to long-steep. We know some of them from previous visits. It seemed more difficult on this visit to obtain trail maps, as the tourist info kiosks were often closed, but we did “walk about” here and there.

Unfortunately, as far as we could determine, all the shops renting bicycles are out of business. Scooters and rental cars are readily available. Tourists don't use legs anymore?

The sea at the anchorage of St Louis, Marie-Galante, is “gin-clear” and the seabed is crawling with starfish, small conch and sea-cucumbers. We swam in the ocean everyday. One can see the orange starfish on the bottom around the boat in the moon-light.

Marie-Galante has spectacularly beautiful beaches, perfect for swimming, walking, picnics or just plain loafing.

Click on the video clip below to appreciate the pleasure of brown feet-in-surf. Don't miss this soundtrack!

We rented a car to tour the island. Capesterre is an interesting town with many old buildings. In the country-side we had to deal with “rural traffic jams”. Pani problem.

Of course, on a boat it can never be all play and no work. Maintenance cannot be ignored when the engine does not crank. Fortunately, we can do basic starter motor repair on-board.  And varnishing is another favourite "diversion".

The Grenadines

On Mar 14 we departed Marie-Galante for the 46 hour passage to the Grenadines. For multiple-day passages we prefer times around the full moon, because the bright moon-light facilitates night-time sailing. On these passages we rotate watches between the two of us; three hours on, three off, around the clock, so there is always someone awake in the cockpit. One soon decides what is most important during their “off watch” times!

It was a calm passage along the E sides of Dominica, Martinique, St Lucia and St Vincent. Some of the time there was too little wind to manage by sail alone, but, as portrayed in the video clip below, we had some glorious sailing.

The calmer conditions did facilitate fishing, and it was productive! This fish was prepared for the table in at least 10 different ways, including grilled steaks, fish and rice, smoked fish spread, and fish-head soup.  And then there were the two "bags" of roe!

We were treated to a whale broaching, a large humpback, “like a freight train out of a tunnel”, two boat lengths behind the Charlotte D!  Peter was “on watch” and just happened to be scanning astern. On the roaring broach, he hailed Catherine, resting below, and the whale broached again just as she got her head out of the companion-way. How considerate of the whale to repeat the performance for her. Spectacular! We were thrilled for hours!

We passed through regions with heavy populations of “Man-O-War” Jelly Fish, with the big Leatherback Turtles there to feed upon them.

At our stop in Chatham Bay, Union Island, we enjoyed visiting with our long-time friends Vanessa, Seckie and Mate.

A few days later, we pushed on southward to Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, part of the country of Grenada.  Simon greeted us and we purchased mangrove oysters from him.

This anchorage is scenic and peaceful. It is about 35 nm from our final destination of the 2013-2014 sailing season.

We are scheduled to haul out the Charlotte D on March 28 for her summer storage ashore at Spice Island Marine, on the S coast of Grenada.

So, on march 25, we enjoyed a magnificent beam reach sailing from Carricou to Prickly Bay of the big island of Grenada and on the next morning we started the decommissioning process, first by removing sailing and bagging them inside for the summer.   We have ordered two new sails, which are here and ready for our pickup.

We hope you enjoyed our blog posts this season, and we look forward to writing for you again during the 2014-2015 season.  We look forward to seeing many of you on our "northern migration" and upon our return home to Nova Scotia.  Entre-temps, vas y voi.  Bon voyage!

Peter and Catherine, aboard S/V Charlotte D, Prickly Bay,Grenada