We reached Martinique, French West Indies, on Feb 1, 2009 after a 93 nm, 20 hr sail north from Bequia, part of St Vincent and the Grenadines. On this passage we traveled the lee sides (west sides) of the Big Islands of St. Vincent and St. Lucia but did not stop at either this time.
In Martinique we used two nearby anchorages. The anchorage at St Anne is the more scenic. There is a most lovely, long beach (Salines Beach) with several good French restaurants and beach goers who follow the European practice of going topless. Check it out on Google Earth at 14 26.2’N 60 53.3’W, http://www.earth.google.com/
The anchorage at Cul-de-Sac Marin (14 27.6’N 60 52.4’W) gives access to facilities such as supermarket, auto parts store, chandleries, Customs and Immigration. While there we had our coolest weather of this winter. The temperature plummeted to nighttime lows of 20 deg C (68 deg F).
Our overall impression of Martinique is that it is civilized; so much more civilized than the English-speaking islands to the south. The residents are polite and tolerate our poor French with patience. The children in their school uniforms say, “Bonjour Madame. Bonjour Monsier.” as they make room for us to pass on the sidewalk. There are only a few stray dogs, no street litter, and no loud music on the beaches (except at Club Med). Magazines and newspapers are available in the smallest communities, even some English language newspapers like The International Herald Tribune. Some links for Martinique: http://www.martinique-bonjour.com/ and http://www.martinique.org/
There was a grieve general while we were in Martinique. Many establishments closed in support of the strike. Pas du carbourant could have been an inconvenience for us except that we arrived at Martinique with fuel reserves sufficient for at least two months at anchor. We did finally run low on gasoline for the dinghy outboard, so we rowed more. There was no FedEx, so we could not receive the ordered glow plugs for our diesel generator. Fortunately, les patisseries, les marches, y les restaurants remained open but with dwindling supplies and progressively more limited menus.
We do not understand fully the reasons for the strike. If interested, you could get more insight at http://www.iht.com/articles/ap/2009/03/11/news/CB-French-Caribbean-Unrest.php
Danish Friends
We have repeatedly crossed paths with Rune cruising from Denmark aboard S/V Condor (http://www.sy-condor.dk/ ). Our first meeting was in Tobago. Subsequently, without planning it, we met again in Chatham Bay and at Bequia. Our fourth meeting was in Martinique where Rune arrived after picking up his son Bjorg and Bjorg’s mother Tina to cruise onward to Cuba and Jamaica.
Rune had a once in a life time experience in Martinique. He came down with hemorrhagic fever and renal failure from exposure to Hanta Virus. This is carried by aerosols of rodent excreta, saliva or urine, and also in dust or dried particles of the same. Hanta virus is distributed world wide where there are mice or rats. From the timing of presentation of his disease, he must have had the exposure in Barbados. He became ill at sea enroute to Martinique and spent almost a week in intensive care in a hospital in Fort de France. He has only praise for the quality of medical care in Martinique.
Engine Servicing.
It took me some time to figure out that failure of the glow plugs was the cause of the starting difficulties of our Onan generator. The replacement plugs were ordered just the day before the grieve general shut down the courier services to Martinique, so we have had to do without our generator since then. The drive belts on our Perkins propulsion engine where showing more and more wear, so three new ones were snapped on.
Replacement of bearing and seal for KISS wind generator.
Because of our lack of functioning diesel generator, our KISS wind generator became more important. Of course, just when it was most needed, the shaft bearing seized.
We were able to obtain replacement bearings and oil seal to fit; available from stock at a local chandlery. It was a two day job for Catherine and I because we had never done it before. We were successful!
Our Martinique anchorages had nice steady trade winds, so the wind generator provided 100% of our electricity needs, supporting even water-making.
Varnishing.
The dry season began while we were in Martinique. This is the time every year to renew some varnish. We applied 13 coats to grab rails, two companionway sliders, dorade boxes, cockpit coaming cap rail, and cockpit table.
Replacement of Stove.
We have been looking at French-made Eno stoves for some time and found one in stock for a good price at one of the chandleries in le Marin. It did take 3 days to get it moved from their local warehouse to store, but this gave us time to remove and dispose of the old stove.
Our Martinique anchorages had nice steady trade winds, so the wind generator provided 100% of our electricity needs, supporting even water-making.
Varnishing.
The dry season began while we were in Martinique. This is the time every year to renew some varnish. We applied 13 coats to grab rails, two companionway sliders, dorade boxes, cockpit coaming cap rail, and cockpit table.
Replacement of Stove.
We have been looking at French-made Eno stoves for some time and found one in stock for a good price at one of the chandleries in le Marin. It did take 3 days to get it moved from their local warehouse to store, but this gave us time to remove and dispose of the old stove.
To fit the new stove required making new standoffs for the gimble pivots and lock.
Now Catherine can once again bake bread!
Repair of Sun Shade.
Our Shade Tree Sun Shade has seen much use over the past 6 years and is requiring more and more repair. Several of the carbon fibre spreader poles have split or broken. These are a simple replacement because we carry spare poles. Unfortunately, when a pole breaks it usually punctures the fabric, so out comes the sewing machine.
Beach Time.
The lovely beach at St. Anne is not to be missed! We joined our cruising friends Wayne and Trish (S/V Rhythm of Life) for some much needed beach “therapy”. This included sipping cold beer sitting in the shade, and refueling at the beach front restaurants as well as wading and swimming in the warm bay waters.
Our Shade Tree Sun Shade has seen much use over the past 6 years and is requiring more and more repair. Several of the carbon fibre spreader poles have split or broken. These are a simple replacement because we carry spare poles. Unfortunately, when a pole breaks it usually punctures the fabric, so out comes the sewing machine.
Beach Time.
The lovely beach at St. Anne is not to be missed! We joined our cruising friends Wayne and Trish (S/V Rhythm of Life) for some much needed beach “therapy”. This included sipping cold beer sitting in the shade, and refueling at the beach front restaurants as well as wading and swimming in the warm bay waters.
Home-made ice cream is delivered to the beach by wheelbarrow.
Trish and Catherine patronized the vendors hawking les costumes de bain along the beach. The swimsuits were fitted on the beach and the vendor had a small mirror available.
Notice swim suits changed between the two pics above without benefit of "change room". This whole procedure was most amusing.
Catherine is very pleased with the gift from Trish of a kitchen mitt that will no doubt assist her cooking. Look at that design!
Shopping in Martinique.
In spite of the grieve general, we found opportunities for entertainment in shopping. The street-side vendor of fresh-made fruit smoothies was in business. The French baguettes are like none other.
The local fishermen continued to bring in their daily catch, announcing their arrival at the water’s edge by blowing a conch shell.
Shopping in Martinique.
In spite of the grieve general, we found opportunities for entertainment in shopping. The street-side vendor of fresh-made fruit smoothies was in business. The French baguettes are like none other.
The local fishermen continued to bring in their daily catch, announcing their arrival at the water’s edge by blowing a conch shell.
We often ate fresh Mahi-Mahi or Wahoo, but passed on Parrot Fish and the immature Snapper.
The open air vegetable and spice market is always fun. .
Cruising South from Martinique.
After almost 6 weeks in Martinique, we departed on March 11 for a lovely 5 day cruise south. This was a series of day-sails, anchoring at night. We were disappointed to find much waterfront construction underway at the formerly lovely anchorage at l’Anse Le’ Raye, St. Lucia (13 56.4’N 61 02.7’W). Of course, it will be an improved location when finished.
We had a most delightful sail down the west coast of St Lucia. The video below gives a good impression of the wonderful conditions, enhanced by the Pitons receding into the background and by Catherine’s fiddling (The Westfalia Waltz).
The open air vegetable and spice market is always fun. .
Cruising South from Martinique.
After almost 6 weeks in Martinique, we departed on March 11 for a lovely 5 day cruise south. This was a series of day-sails, anchoring at night. We were disappointed to find much waterfront construction underway at the formerly lovely anchorage at l’Anse Le’ Raye, St. Lucia (13 56.4’N 61 02.7’W). Of course, it will be an improved location when finished.
We had a most delightful sail down the west coast of St Lucia. The video below gives a good impression of the wonderful conditions, enhanced by the Pitons receding into the background and by Catherine’s fiddling (The Westfalia Waltz).
Click on the video below to be entertained!
We were pleased to discover the tiny anchorage at Petit Byahaut, St. Vincent. There is room for 3 or 4 boats maximum. We were alone there for two nights.
We are now lying at anchor in Princess Margaret Bay, Bequia, where the local blackbirds sing, “Beck-Way, Sweet, Sweet”, and it is!
Look for full details of our time at Bequia in our next blog!
“Prayer is like a rocking chair. It gives you something to do, but doesn’t get you anywhere.” Gypsy Rose Lee.
